Tradition Meets Disruption: Why Savile Row Is Opening Its Doors
Savile Row collaborations mark a shift for the timeless tailoring hub, now blending tradition with modern fashion trends. However, in 2025, even the oldest homes on the Row are becoming more accessible—to cooperation.
It was a sign of seismic shift when Davies & Son collaborated with Setchu designer Satoshi Kuwata to exhibit at Pitti Uomo.
Kuwata, trained under Davies’ head cutter Johnny Allen, fused kimono-inspired folds into classic tailoring—a “twist” that would have been unthinkable a decade ago.
“The Old Guard would invariably say no,” Allen recalls. “But everyone in fashion collaborates now. Savile Row can’t be the exception.”
From SpongeBob to Gore-Tex: Unexpected Pairings
While earlier collaborations were safe and surface-level—pinstripe car seats, PR-driven stunts—new projects are pushing boundaries:
- Henry Poole x Adidas: “Evening sneakers” blending athletic streetwear with formal roots.
- Henry Poole x Gore-Tex: A tailored trench in technical fabric, merging heritage with performance.
- Richard James x Castore: Precision-based athletic tailoring using bonded seams, not stitching.
- Richard James x Luke Derrick: A camo-print smoking jacket, releasing March.
- Anderson & Sheppard x Giles Deacon: Co-branded accessories that meet modern flair with old-school craftsmanship.
Challenging the Craft: Why It’s Not Just About PR
As Taj Phull of H Huntsman & Sons says, collaborations should go beyond recognition and challenge the tailors:
“To push boundaries, you need the right cutter in place—someone who won’t fight change.”
In a standout example, Daniel Fletcher worked with Campbell Carey at Huntsman, leaving basting stitches visible—paying homage to the bespoke process.
This isn’t just marketing. It’s craftsmanship meeting contemporary ideas in a way that pushes both sides of the collaboration.
Savile Row’s Identity Crisis—and Its Cure
Many in the trade admit to a growing problem: younger generations don’t know what Savile Row is. Fast fashion and throwaway culture have eclipsed the tradition of bespoke.
“It’s like a World Heritage site,” says Kuwata. “It needs protecting—but also modern relevance.”
Collaborations with cutting-edge designers offer a way forward. Not just relevance, but aspiration. Tailoring becomes not just a luxury, but a story—a symbol of permanence in an impermanent world.
Is It Too Late?
In a fashion world oversaturated with collabs for the sake of collabs, there’s skepticism.
“The idea is burnt out,” Phull admits.
“People don’t want hype anymore. They want meaning.”
Yet this may be Savile Row’s advantage. Its insular, old-world reputation makes it unexpected and refreshing when it partners with tech-driven or edgy labels. The contrast creates authenticity—and that’s what today’s audience is craving.
Source: Esquire
